The oldest building dating from the pre-Christian era, away further excavation before their origin can be confirmed. One side occupies an imposing site where archeologists have discovered the remains of what was once a massive palace with finely mortared stone walls, deep foundations and its own impressive drainage system. The floor of the large throne room has been discovered fallen in. it is not difficult to imagine the rulers of ancient Axum holding court there. The obelisk achieves their peak of perfection on a pleasant grassy site near the churches of St. Mary of Zion. There are also private bathing areas of sophisticated design and there is a well preserved kitchen dominated by two huge bricks oven, local legend has it that this palace was the original seat of the queen of Sheba. In a large field on the other side of the Gondar road, facing the palace, there are a number of rough hewn granite slabs, some standing, some fallen, among the giant stele said to be the nobles and kings burial place.
The stelea to the north of the town, perhaps 2000 years old are early examples of an art form that came in to its own in Ethiopia around the time of the time of the birth of Christ and that flourished until the 4th century A.D although found in all parts of Axum, the obelisk achieve their peak of perfection on a pleasant grassy site near the churches of St. Mary of Zion. Here amongst the number of plainer stelea, there are also three finely carved monuments which because of their size and the intricacy of their beautiful proportioned execution, astonish the beholder. Only one of these amazing monuments is still standing although another had been looted during the Italian invasion of Ethiopia was erected in Rome.
The standing obelisk at Axum rises to a height of over 23metres and is enquisitely carved to represent the nine storey building in the fashion of “tower houses” of south Arabia. The front elevation of this lovely and impressive stelea tapers gradually to the summit and is crowned by a semi-circular head piece which some authonties believe to have represented the sun… the symbol of the pagan religion called Almouqa they used to worship during the pre axumite time. The main decoration in the front elevation is provided by the semblance of window and of beams of timber supposedly inserted horizontally in to the walls with a row of imaginary long ends slotted in to them as supports. The house like appearance is enhanced by the presence, at the base of the monument of a symbolic doors surmounted by a row of rectangular windows, somewhat smaller than those on the eight storey above. An additional, and very successful, decorative feature is provided by a shallow central recess which extends, on the front elevation from the base to the summit.
The architectural decoration on the front of the obelisk is carried out also on both sides with suitable modification the back is however undecorated, except for a circle carved in relief near the apex, with the representation of four bowls grouped together in the centre and a fifth touching at the circle edge.
The altar probably intended for sacrifices, is fitted to the base of the front of the stelea. This altar which contains four circular bowls sunk in its surface, is decorated with a border of vine leaves.
The largest stele at Axum has long since fallen over 33metres in length and perhaps the biggest single piece of stone quarried in ancient times, it is engraved with decorative motifs similar to those on the standing obelisk but with a design representing no fewer than 13 storey.
Another interesting but quite differently decorated stele also now fallen measures 9metres in height- it bears on its front side, a column carved in a low relief with a capital formed of two leaves supporting a mysterious object represented by a rectangle surmounted by a triangle or painted arch. These two latter emblems are also found in a slightly squatter form, on the rear of the stele. What it was in fact supposed to be is, however, a matter of speculation. Some authorities have argued that it signified a house or palace, others a grave perhaps of ancient axumite monarchs while others hold that it is a representation of the Ark of the Covenant.
A number of underground galleries and chambers, roofed and walled with massive granite blocks fitted together with an almost supernatural precision, lie beneath the fortress, local tradition identifies these as tombs of emperor Kaleb(514-42) and of his son GebreMeskel. Each tomb approached down a steep stone stairway while at the entrance to the wider ground vaults a vestibule leads in to three separate chambers with doorways carved to resemble those decorating the great stelea, empty stone coffins lie within these deeply buried chambers, which according to one legend once contained great riches in gold pearls.
Returning to the centre of Axum from the tombs of Caleb and GebreMeskel, the travelers follows a steep newly cut road that offers striking views over the old city to the park of the stelea and at the foot of the road, to the left, stands a large deep water reservoir, the Maishum which according to legend was once the bath of the queen Sheba.
By the Tenth century, the Zagwe dynasty had emerged as a post-Axumite Christian Empire. The Zagwe kingdom was born out of the cultural and political interactions of the Cushitic and Semitic peoples in the northern highlands. Like the Axumite kingdom, the Zagwe dynasty was a political empire rooted in religion. The Zagwe devoted themselves to the construction of new churches and monasteries. Born out of this patron hip of religious art is the construction of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. Ethiopian Christianity, however, was increasingly isolated from other Christian nations. With the conversion of Egypt to Islam, the Zagwe dynasty lost contact with its closest link with the outside Christianity, the Egyptian Coptic Christian Church. This dynasty had passed through about sixteen kings out of which four are considerably outstanding and most influential kings. The most notable of the rulers of the Zagwe dynasty was King Lalibela who reigned from 1167 to 1207. A brilliant achievement of his reign was the construction of a dozen beautiful rock-hewn churches. According to legend, a dense cloud of bees surrounded the Prince Lalibela at the moment of his birth. His mother, claiming that the bees represented the soldiers who would one day serve her son, chose for him the name Lalibela, meaning "the bees recognize his sovereignty". Lalibela's older brother, King Harbay, was made jealous by these prophecies about his brother and tried to poison him. While Lalibela was drugged, angels transported him to various realms of heaven where God gave him directions to build a New Jerusalem with churches in a unique style. Lalibela also learned that he need not fear for his life or his sovereignty, for God had anointed him so that he might build the churches. After three days of divine communication, Lalibela returned to mortal existence and accepted the throne from his brother, who had also been visited by God (and told to abdicate to Lalibela). Both brothers traveled to the city of Roha and began the construction of the churches. Assisted by angels and St. Gabriel, they built twelve extraordinary churches over a period of twenty-five years. The Ethiopian Orthodox church later canonized the King and changed the name of the city of Roha to Lalibela. King Lalibela who was supposed to have hewn out the 11 churches was the only priest king. The rock hewn churches of laibela, which visitors from abroad often regard as something out of this world. It is said that the construction to have been carried out with remarkable speed, which is scarcely surprising, according to legend, angels joined the laborers by day and in the evening did double the amount of work which the main had done during the hours of day light. These notable structures are carved, inside and out, into the solid rock, and are considered to be among the wonders of the world. Each building is architecturally unique but each reflects beautifully executed craftsmanship, and several are decorated with fascinating paintings. These astonishing edifices remain places of living worship to this day.
The churches of Lalibela are among the most extraordinary architectural creations of human civilization. Each church is sculpted, both inside and out, directly from the living bedrock of the earth. The churches have certain features in common, but at the same time differ widely from each other. They fall geographically in to three groups. Six churches are situated in close proximity to each other north of a river called Jordan which flows through the town in the rainy season, Namely Bete Medhanealem/house of the Savor of the world/, Bete Maryam/House of Mary/, Bete Danaghil/house of the virgin/, Bete Qedus Mikael/ house saint micheal/, Bete Golgotha/House of the Golgotha/ and bête Sillasie/house of Trinity/. Another four stand to the south of the river, namely Bete Emanuel/house of Emanuel/, Bete Qedus Mrercoriuos/house of saint mercurios/, Bete Aba Libanos/house Aba Libanos/, Bete Qedus Gabriel Rafael/house of Gabriel and Rafael/. One other church Bete Ghiorgis/house of St. George lands at some distance away to the south west.
The motive for hewning out these churches is to create the second Jerusalem here in Ethiopia and save pilgrims from verities of suffering while going to Jerusalem and The churches are still used for worship today and many are filled with richly painted biblical murals.
A new Period, claiming lineage from King Solomon of Israel and Queen Sheba of Ethiopia, came to power in the mid-sixteenth century. This new period continued expansion and pursued a more aggressive policy towards the South. The kingdom found itself combating the growing influence of the Muslims closer to home in the coastal regions of Ethiopia. Religious and ethnic conflicts climaxed in the sixteenth century. The weakened Christian kingdom was pressured by Oromo insurgents in the South and by Muslims from the coast. The Muslim advance was turned back with Portuguese assistance. The contact with the Portuguese ended a long period of isolation from the rest of the Christian world. The Portuguese however brought their own religion, Roman Catholicism, with them and the Jesuit and kindred orders sought to convert the Ethiopians. Ethiopian leaders wanted the Portuguese as military allies only and resented their attempt to convert Catholicism. By 1632, after a civil war between adherents of Catholicism and Ethiopian Orthodox, Susenyous abdicated his power to his son Fassiledes and he shifted the capital from Gorgora to a very strategic place Gondar which stayed for more than 200 years as a permanent capital, administrative, commercial, religious and cultural centre, and a number of castle like palaces were built. Learning the problems from his Father King Fassiledes had a restoration of Orthodox Christianity and the Catholic and Jesuit missionaries were expelled from Ethiopia and foreign interaction was again limited.
The age old historical town situated 748k.m from Addis and 183k.m from Bahir Dar, and has considerably fascinating structure. The oldest and the most impressive of Gondar’s imperial structure is the two storeyed palace of emperor Fassiledes which is built for roughly hewn brown basalt stone held together with mortar said to have been the work of the Indian architect. The building has a flat roof, a rectangular tower in the south west corner- which affords a view of lake Tana in the distance four smaller doomed towers and a battlemented parapet.
Gondar is known for its tremendous churches. Today are about 44 churches, some of which especially those with paintings or owing manuscripts, are worthy of somewhat detailed description.
Situated on te crest of the hill a 30minute walk to the northeast of Gondar in a peaceful park of old Junipers and olive trees, was constructed during the reign of emperor Iyasu(1682-1706)
This church was never destroyed, it said that when the dervish tried to burn it in 1881 they were attacked and dispersed by bees.
It is a rectangular similar to those of the axumite architecture. The main entrance has two high doors and high wall around it with 12 towers (for the 12 apostles - symbolism and religious numbers are very relevant in Ethiopia). Between the two first rooms above the centre division is the “emperor” for the emperors a small outside staircase leads to it. The inside walls of the front room are covered with paintings on a cloth glued to the surface. The ceiling is built with thick beams and is decorated with winged angel heads looking down. The walls painting depict scenes from the life of Christ, Mary with "eyes that follow you around the room", the saints and the trinities and others. The style of the paintings is doubtless typical Ethiopian. Although during that time Europeans influence became stronger. Different in style are the angels Gabriel and Raufa’el on the doors to the holly of hollies in the centre room, the ceiling of which is also painted with angel heads.
This church lies in the centre of the town of Gondar. It was first built under the reign of Emperor fasil, was later burned and destroyed, and was then reconstructed after 1881. It is a typical Ethiopian round church with twp circuits. All other walls of the holly of hollies are covered with paintings on cloth glued to the walls. The painting represent the Ethiopian style of the 19th c. but copy to a great extent the 17th c.
In Gondar there are also many other churches which I could not describe deeply. Among this Gimjabet Maryam church which in the courtyard contains the tomb of the British consul Plowder Atatame, Mika’el church, Ilfign ghiorgis church, TekleHaymanot church, Aba tsehale Tekle haymanot church, Qeha Yesus church, aba Antoniuos church, Kidus Yohanes church, Lidetta Maryam church and fit abo church can be cited.
This island rises with its perfect cone in the centre of the lake. It is one of the most important of the islands ever since the older times, a monastery was located here, the island is considered sacred and cannot be trodden up on by any female creatures, human or animal. The church of daga Istephanos is a rectangular building similar to the Debre Birhan church in Gondar.
The present building is modern and was constructed after the reign of emperor Yohanes the fourth(1868-1889) it has modern wall paintings and a fragment of an old painting(16th c) on the outer of northern wall. In a special building near the church the bodies of several of Ethiopian emperor preserved. Among these, Yokuno Amlak(1268-83), Dawit First(1382-1411), Zarah Yacob(1434 -68), Za Dengil(1603 -04)and Fassil(1632-67) dead remains are kept here well in a way to be seen vividly and neatly.
Cheeseman writes in his book, we climbed up a well polished tree branch that serves as a ladder and saw on the mummified body of emperor fassil, his head was covered by a cloth, which when removed, disclosed the face with a fine looking man with refined features, thin nose and lips” the sword of the emperor is also shown. Beside the mummy of fassil lies the skeleton of a child said to be his son, who was crowned when his father died but during the ceremonies collapsed under the great weight of the crown.
Very near to Daga Istephanos is Dek a flat and rather large island which can be visited by women.
On the western shore of Dek and connected with it only during the dry season is Sellasie church of Narga, this large round church was built under the reign of Empress mentwab(1730-55) and a charming portrait of the regent is shown under the picture of saint mary. There are many well preserved wall paintings. The church was repaired in 1956.
Other churches in island of Dek are the Arsima church which owned one of the oldest and most beautiful manuscripts of the Ethiopian middle age yet discovered(reproduced in the Unesco album) the Gola Maryam church and Daga Yohaness church.
This island lies on the eastern shore of Lake Tana, across Dek and Daga Istephanos. It is a peninsula during the dry season. During the rainy season it id cut off from the shore. This semi-islands is considered holy ground and cannot be visited by females. Tradition tells us that St. Mary rested here under a wall during her flight to Egypt and stayed for three months and ten days. The monks claim that they owned a necklace which she left when she departed. It is also said that the island was a sacred place of the Jesus. Minlik the first and the Jewish Nobles after fleeing from Solmon, brought the ark of the covenant to this island and built a temple over it, which was decorated with whalebone and precious stones six hundred years later the ark was brought to Axum. The grandson of the high priest of Solmon’s temple in Jerusalem, zaduk, is supposed to lie buried here. Three large stones are shown which are proclaimed as sacrificial stone of the Jewish rites. The hollows for catching the blood of the victims are shown too!
On his travels through the country, preaching and converting the population, frumentios finally arrived at Tana Cherkos, died and buried here after planting iron prayer sticked topped with a cross. Later on, a Christian church was erected by Abreha and Atsbeha, two legendary axumite kings of the 4th c. the present church was rebuilt in the time of Ras Gugsa, during the time of Emperor Minlik the second of the 20th c. the church owns two interesting folding books of the 15th c. the larger about 75cm. high and 16cm width.
From my own experience I tended to side the tradition says that it is here where St. Mary landed for more than three months. While I was there once, I had got the exposure of the foot prints of the either the horse or donkey on a rock that St. Mary and Christ rode on.
Continuing the southern end of the heart shaped lake, the Island of Kibran and Entos are approached on Entos there used to be a nunnery though its church is now abandoned. Some of the book and paintings now preserved in kibran originated from Entos. The Gabriel church of Kibran was built during the reign of Amdetsyon, and reconstructed by Dawit the second and Adyam sagad Iyasu. Twelve dark red stone pillars symbolizing the apostles surround the central holly of hollies. There are cloth paintings, skillfully done, especially very touching is the picture of the mourning of Christ of body. Kebran owns many Manuscripts, some of which have been reproduced in the UNESCO album. Many of the manuscripts originate from other churches which brought them therefore safe keeping during the muslim invasion of the 16th c.
Is another church situated on the south east corner of the lake, near the mouth of the outlet of the Blue Nile which was built during the reign of Amdetsyon but now in poor condition. A legend tells that when Abune Estatteaos, the founder first went to the island, the water divided and let him pass on foot. It contains one of the oldest Illuminated manuscripts, the Gospel with four outstanding paintings of the evangelists writing the gospel.
Another church on the Zagie Peninsula is Ura kidanemihret with one hour cruising time of Bahir Dar. Constructed by Amdetsyon but rebuilt by Dawit the second and Iyasu Adyam Sagad. It has paintings similar to Gonderine style. Women visitors are allowed and the monks are more open and communicative the church design at Ura Kidanemihret is similar to that at kebran Gabriel and indeed dates from the same period. It is more decorative building however arched over with a huge conical thatched roof and superbly painted inside and out with colorful frescoes depicting scenes from biblical lore and from the history of the Ethiopian church.
Ura Kidanemihret has a large treasury containing ancient beautiful illuminated bibles written in GEEZ from which ethiopia’s modern Amharic language is derived many other texts and records are also stored here, bearing witness to the observation that the orthodox church through the ages has been one of the prime sources and repositories of written Ethiopian history.
There are also crowns rendered by different emperors namely tewodros, Yohaness, tekleHaimanot of Gojjam and Tekle Girogis. What is more Amdetsyon offered a big cross made from metal and is clearly seen at ura-kidanemihret. There is also over coat of Emperor Iyasu Adyam Sagad. So this church is a site rich in different treasures and is worthy Visiting.
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